Turkmenistan From Uzbekistan: Visa, Border Crossing and Darvaza Gas Crater

Adding Turkmenistan to our Uzbekistan trip was never going to be the easiest part of the journey, but we really wanted to see the Darvaza Gas Crater for ourselves.

We travelled overland from Khiva into Turkmenistan, spent one night near the crater and then drove back to Uzbekistan the next day. It was definitely an adventure, although there was quite a lot of bureaucracy involved along the way.

If you’re thinking about doing the same, here’s what we learned.

Turkmenistan visa requirements

Turkmenistan is not a country where you can simply turn up and get a tourist visa at the border.

For a tourist visa, you need a Letter of Invitation, which is arranged through an authorised travel agency. Once you have the invitation, you can apply for the visa through a Turkmenistan embassy, or in some circumstances obtain the visa on arrival at an eligible border.

In practice, this means you’ll need to organise your trip through a Turkmenistan tour company or authorised travel agency, particularly if you’re planning an itinerary like ours. There are several companies that organise tours to Darvaza.

We booked our tour with Advantour, and we were happy with their services and how everything was handled. We booked their 8 day Classic Uzbekistan tour, and combined it with their Darvaza Gas Crater overnight tour from Khiva.

Our advice is simple: sort out the paperwork well in advance. This is not the kind of border crossing you want to improvise.

Crossing the Uzbekistan-Turkmenistan border

Our border crossing was an experience in itself.

And by “experience”, I mean it took a very long time.

There were multiple windows, queues and people checking and signing paperwork. At one point it felt like we were repeatedly being sent to different people just so someone could sign essentially the same piece of paper.

It was extremely bureaucratic.

Travelling with a child made the waiting even more noticeable, so if you’re doing this with kids, bring plenty of water, snacks and something to keep them entertained. Don’t assume that a border crossing which looks straightforward on the itinerary will actually be quick.

There is also a practical reason not to make your schedule too tight. Turkmenistan’s land borders can be subject to unexpected closures, so don’t plan a flight or other important connection immediately after your crossing.

Yes, you still need a COVID test

This was one of the more surreal parts of our trip.

We travelled in 2025, when we were still required to have a COVID test when entering Turkmenistan. It wasn’t a quick formality either. We had to wait to be seen by the doctor and then wait again while the test was processed.

After everything else involved in crossing the border, it felt like another layer of unnecessary bureaucracy. At the time, it certainly felt to us like one more expense being added to the process.

And surprisingly, the requirement is still in place as of August 2026. Current UK government travel advice states that everyone entering Turkmenistan must undergo a COVID-19 test on arrival, currently costing US$31 in cash.

So if you’re planning a trip now, don’t assume that COVID entry requirements have disappeared everywhere. Check the rules again shortly before travelling, as these requirements can change.

Darvaza Gas Crater

Eventually, after all the paperwork and border bureaucracy, we made it to the Darvaza Gas Crater.

And yes, it was cool.

Very cool.

The crater was created in 1971, when a Soviet drilling operation encountered an underground gas cavity and the ground collapsed. The resulting crater was set alight in the hope that the gas would burn off, but it has continued burning for decades.

Standing there at night, looking down into a giant burning crater in the middle of the Karakum Desert, isn’t something you get to do every day.

Our son was eight at the time, and for him, this was exactly the sort of slightly crazy travel experience that makes a trip memorable.

Accommodation in Darvaza: the yurt camp

The accommodation in Darvaza was a very different story.

We stayed in a yurt at the desert camp near the crater, and honestly, it was the worst yurt we’ve ever stayed in. That’s saying something, since we’ve also stayed in yurts in Mongolia, Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan.

The yurt itself was dirty, including nail clippings on the floor, and the beds and bedding were extremely uncomfortable. Shower and toilet facilities were also pretty basic and, unfortunately, not particularly clean.

Our saving grace was the food. Dinner and breakfast at the camp were actually pretty good. That was a pleasant surprise after the rather questionable sleeping arrangements. The breakfast was very basic, and mostly just ok. The dinner the night before, however, was really good and consistent of grilled meats, bread, and salad. I’m not sure if they had any vegetarian or vegan options, so if you have a certain diet, be sure to check in advance with your tour company.

Of course, the point of staying at Darvaza is being out in the desert next to the gas crater, not the accommodation itself. So we’d still recommend doing it if you’re interested in seeing Darvaza. Just lower your expectations for the yurt. If you’ve stayed in Mongolian or Central Asian yurts before, don’t expect the same standard.

Is Darvaza going to be extinguished?

This is worth mentioning if you’re planning a visit.

Turkmenistan has been actively working to reduce the amount of gas feeding the crater. In 2025, the government reported that new wells around the site had significantly reduced the crater’s gas supply and that the visible burning had become much weaker than it was in previous years. Independent satellite data cited by the government also showed a major reduction in the intensity of the burning.

So while you may still see the flames, Darvaza is not the same crater it was a decade ago, and its future is uncertain.

If seeing it is high on your travel list, I wouldn’t assume you’ll always have the opportunity to see it looking like the classic photographs.

Was it worth the hassle?

For us, yes.

The visa process, border crossing and COVID test were all considerably more complicated than entering Uzbekistan. The journey into the desert was also rough, and the accommodation at the yurt camp wasn’t exactly luxurious.

But standing beside Darvaza at night and seeing that enormous crater glowing in the darkness was an experience we’ll remember.

I’d recommend adding Turkmenistan to an Uzbekistan trip if you genuinely enjoy adventure and unusual travel experiences, rather than simply wanting to tick another country off your list.

Just go prepared for bureaucracy, long waits and a trip that probably won’t run exactly according to schedule.

That’s part of the adventure.